I find it really disheartening when a shop bought garment fits perfectly in the bodice but pinches across the bicep area. Do you feel the same? That's why making your own patterns and clothes from dressmaking patterns can be the better option. Forget the high street stores who wouldn't recognise diversity if it hit them in the face. They're mostly still providing a silhouette based on a figure type many women don't recognise as their own.
The Full Bicep Adjustment, not to be confused with that other FBA (Full Bust Adjustment), is just the thing if you're finding and minding that pinch.
The only area that will be adjusted is across the bicep, not in the armhole as you might think. So, grab your block or pattern and get adjusting.
A. Measure your bicep. This is at the widest part of your upper arm.
B. Next check the measurement in the same position on the dress block.
C. Draw a vertical line through the middle of the sleeve block, from the top to the bottom.
D. Draw a horizontal line at the widest point from side seam to side seam.
E. Cutting through the vertical line from the hem, stop short of the sleeve head by 2mm.
F. Cut through the horizontal lines stopping short of the side seams by 2mm.
G. Open up the width of the sleeve and add the amount required plus 2 cm ease allowance, without changing the length of the sleeve, or adding any volume to the sleeve head. Note that as you open up the width, the horizontal lines will overlap.
H. If you also need to add extra to the wrist area, open up the width all the way down to the wrist.
I. Fill the opening on the bicep-adjustment-only with a piece of paper inserted behind the block.
J. Fill the opening on the bicep-wrist-adjustment with a piece of paper inserted behind the block.
K. Tape the paper into position for the bicep adjustment.
L. Tape the paper into position for the bicep to wrist adjustment.
M. Trim off the excess paper.
N. Trim off the excess paper.
You can find our selection of dress blocks, patterns and pattern making kits in our shop.